England
June 2003

We received an invitation to the wedding of the daughter of some old friends who live in the London area. The wedding was to be held on June 15th, 2003, and the notice of it was passed to us fully a year earlier. It doesn't take much insisting to get us to visit England so we decided to make a real vacation out of the trip. We invited our dear friends Bill and Sandy Flank (from Chappaqua, NY) to join us in spending a week on a Canal Boat and then a drive through part of Wales. We then contacted Ray and Val Humby, a British couple we met while on our China tour (October, 2002) and they agreed to join us on the Canal Boat.
Ray and Val Humby Bill and Sandy Flank

Arriving at Heathrow Airport in London, we were met by Ray and driven to his home in Orpington- southeast of central London in the County of Kent. We enjoyed visiting with them and their daughter and family who live next door...
in Orpington Bar-B-Que

Ray and Val took us on a short drive to Chartwell, the home of Sir Winston Churchill. A beautiful, not overly large building with extensive gardens, fields, walls and outlying buildings. Sir Winston enjoyed planning and working on his home (he actually earned a union card in the bricklayer's union) and it still strongly reflects his dominant personality.
map of Chartwell Chartwell



Chartwell Chartwell

gardens

flower flower

gardens

Bill and Sandy arrived in Orpington 'the group'

and the next day Ray and Val drove all of us to the Stratford Marina in Evesham on the River Avon where we picked up our Canal Boat.
Evesham marina - River Avon



Imagine a railroad car that has been cut off across the bottom - that's what a canal boat is like: 65 feet long, flat bottom, 7 feet wide (!), 12 tons in weight, powered by a diesel engine and steered by a tiller at the stern. The interior is tight, because of the width, but sported two 3/4 sized beds, a sleeping area on each side of the rear compartment, two toilets (one with a shower), a galley and an eating area.

canal boat SIAN stern sleeping areas

bow galley area bow eating/sitting area

After a 20 minute lesson in boat handling the six of us set off upriver onto what is called The Upper Avon Navigational Trust (UANT) Upper Avon'which is the stretch of river between Evesham and Stratford-upon-Avon.

Since it was already mid-afternoon and the canal boat moves along at about 3-4 mph we decided to go through the first lock upriver and moor for the night. A book on the Avon that Ray had picked up for the trip told us that there was a pub there with free overnight moorings. We had planned to eat dinner on the boat and then head up to the pub for a drink and a visit.
mooring pub

Bill got in a bit of fishing... Bill fishing and then we settled in for the night.
the pub at night

The next day we headed upriver. The Avon is a quiet, often meandering river that passes through cultivated fields. Locks allow pleasure boats and canal boats to move past areas of rapids where the height of the river can vary by as much as 30 feet. The river varies in width from 20 to more than 100 feet and small pubs, inns and towns are found along its banks.
the Avon the Avon river with lock ahead
Jon steering locking through
the Avon

Continuing up river (with escort) the Avon
we came to Bideford and tied up to fill the boat's water tank and have lunch at a riverside pub before heading upriver towards Stratford-upon-Avon..
Bideford
our Group: Sandy,Bill,Jon,Val,Ray -Linda took the picture
Early June is a delightful time to be in England. The land is green and dotted with all types of flowers. Animals, large and small, are accompanied by their young and the "tourist season" has yet to really get underway.

Travelling in a canal boat gave us a unique perspective. The boat travels at 3-4 mph, driven by a diesel engine. If you are sitting in the forward compartment (dining area) or looking out of a window your eyes are roughly 10 inches above the water. You are looking directly at the riverbank and, consequently, can make note of all of the animals and plants that live there. If you choose to sit on the top of the canal boat the surrounding countryside comes into view. The result was an up-close look at swans, moorhens, ducks, sheep and cattle- all with their newborn babies in tow...
looking out a window looking out a window looking out a window

cows ducks ducklings

swan cygnets

The scenery was beautiful. As we moved upstream we passed beautiful homes, riverside home animals, horse
a marina, marina
and a guitarist practicing alongside the river.guitarist

Passing under ancient bridges and continuing through locks we came in sight of Stratford-upon-Avon and found a mooring across from the Royal Shakespeare Theatre (RST).
bridge lock
church mooring- Stratford

Stratford is an old market town as well as the birthplace of William Shakespeare. We wandered its streets and visited Shakespeare's birthplace. That evening we attended a performance of "Measure for Measure" at the RST.
buildings shopping

Shakespeare's birthplace Bill and Sandy us

garden monument
Royal Shaakespeare Theatre ducks
Startford is a town where several canals converge- it is possible to take a canal boat almost anywhere in the United Kingdom. The canals cross aquaducts and cross through the larger cities.
canals

Bill and Sandy's Daughter (Sharon), their two grandchildren (Nicole and Rebecca) and Sharon's husband Max were spending the summer in Oxford. Sharon and the girls came up to Stratford by train and spent a few hours with us. We picked up some baguette sandwiches and took them for a ride up the Avon before heading back downriver.
food barge
Flank family boating

We stopped for the night at the marina we had passed while coming upstream. We had met a UANT officer while moored in Stratford who recommended a pub for dinner. We walked about 800 meters (1/2 mile) into the town. What a pub! The Bell Inn - gourmet food, and we met the UANT officer again.

Next day we continued downriver, passed our starting point and locked through into the Lower Avon. Tied up in Evesham and wandered the town in the early evening.
Evesham mooring Evesham
We continued down the Lower Avon, passing through locks and by stately homes, marinas, and the usual collection of animals home home
Ray working the lock gates locking through locking through lock
home marina

It was a delightful time of morning tea... tea time

and relaxing... Linda Jon

Bill and Sandy
We stopped for the last night in Evesham and enjoyed a last meal together. the 'group'

The next morning Ray drove Jon to Worcester where we picked up a rental car. Returning to the marina we unpacked the boat and then said our farewells to Ray and Val who were headed back to Orpington. Packing our luggage into the Vauxhall the Flanks and we began a week's drive into and through northern Wales.

Our first stop was in Worcester, a medieval city complete with an ancient cathedral, central shopping area and the Royal Worcester ceramics factory.
Worcester Cathedral... Worcester Cathedral Cathedral entrance
 ! Cathedral inner garden
cathedral close cathedral cathedral
Royal Worcester factory... cathedral
Central city area... cathedral cathedral
We drove north through the border areas of England and Wales stopping in small towns to savor their flavor... border lands

Leominster... Leominster Leominster

We stopped in Shrewsbury and took lodging at the Lion Hotel in the Town Centre after manuevering through a warren of narrow, one-way medieval streets. Lion Hotel
The Lion is a hostelry that has been in continuous service since the 1500's and we had to thread our way up and down various staircases to reach our room. We were in the Disraeli Suite- it's where Benjamin Disraeli (former Prime Minister) would stay when he was in Shrewsbury. It had been rennovated with modern conveniences but the hotel had left one of the original beams exposed...
staircases Disraeli Suite ancient beam
We walked around the Town Centre enjoying the medieval architecture...
alley building street
churchyard building street

Leaving Shrewsbury we drove into Wales, a countryside of rolling hills, deep valleys, running rivers and incredible numbers of sheep. Wales countryside Wales countryside

We stopped in Llangollen (the Welsh language is truly astounding!), wandered around the town Llangollen
Llangollen quiet moment Llangollen

and found a Bed and Breakfast (B&B) for the night- in a farmhouse over 300 years old.
B&B breakfast time

The next morning we continued towards Betws-y-Coed and ran into a traffic jam. The roads in Wales are narrow and twisting with many drivers who travel at considerable speed. One of them had lost control on a tight turn and flipped his car over a stone fence and onto the roof. Since the road is the only one across Wales at this point the traffic built up quickly... traffic jam

We stopped for a hike into Conwy Falls Conwy Falls

before reaching Betws-y-Coed, a picturesque Welsh town- full of tourists. We walked briefly around the town and then left to find a nearby, out-of-the-way village named Trefriw.
Although we sought out Trefriw because it has one of the last of the Welsh woollen mills that still produces the Welsh Tapestry Cloth, the town is replete with Welsh history. What is reputed to be the oldest church in Wales (St. Mary's) is still standing along the road and the Trefriw Woollen Mill has been in operation for over 140 years by the same family.

Trefriw
The mill is built over a stream and, having replaced the water wheels with hydroelectric turbines, still uses the river as its primary source of electricity. The mill tour consisted of following the arrows, reading the posted commentaries, and keeping out of the way...
river wool thread winding carding machine
wool thread winding heavier thread winding 'warp'
loom with Welsh Tapestry Cloth

We continued north up to Conwy and spent a day wandering the streets of the 13th century town and it's castle. Conwy is a walled city that still retains its midieval atmosphere through the narrow streets, small shops and, of course, its massive stone wall. The city has a fully restored Elizabethan home open to the public.
Conwy city and Conwy Castle Conwy
Conwy Conwy Elizabethan house
Conwy Castle Conwy Castle

We drove out of northern Wales and into the border city of Chester. It is an ancient city with the City Centre still retaining its midieval 12th century city wall. Roman ruins lie just outside the walls.
Chester city centre Chester

Roman ruins from the walls

From Chester we headed across the "midlands" of England to visit the Denbyware factory. We wound our way through country roads and eventually found ourselves in Derbyshire and at the factory. To our disappointment we learned that all tours were booked up by coach tour groups.

After lunch we decided to drive south to Coventry for a visit to Coventry Cathedral. The cathedral was bombed during WWII and a new, modern cathedral was built directly adjancent to the ruin so that both structures form the new Coventry Cathedral- a very powerful statement...
Coventry Cathedral Coventry Cathedral

Stopping in Warwick for the night roof lines in Warwick River Avon
we continued into London. We said goodbye to Bill and Sandy and found our way to the Watford Hilton in north London where we were to attend the wedding of the daughter of some good friends, Simon and Vivian Kent.

We enjoyed a quiet dinner with another pair of valued friends, Barry and Greta Kester Barry and Greta

and the next day took the Underground into London to wander about Underground
before meeting at the Westminster Pier where the groom's parents were hosting a reception for all wedding guests who travelled from other countries - on a boat that sailed up the Thames. We met Simon and Vivian and enjoyed the familiar sights of London, but this time from a water's eye view...
River boat Simon and Vivian Lorraine Kent-the bride

the new 'Eye of London'

Thames River river Bloomsbury area

Thames River the Tower Tower Bridge

Next came the wedding. Us - cleaned up bride and groom Simon and Vivian- bride's parents

Before leaving for home we spent another day in London, visited Shirehall Park in Hendon where Jon lived in the mid-70's and had one last visit with Barry and Greta- a Barbque.
British Museum Jon's old house
Barry, Greta and Ross


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